Sewing with knits can sometimes feel intimidating, but with the right tips and tricks under your belt, it’s absolutely conquerable.
Before you start sewing:
Always prewash your fabric before you begin to allow for any shrinkage, and make sure not to stretch your fabric while you’re cutting out your pattern.
Overlocker:
The easiest way to sew your knits is with an overlocker (or serger, to our American friends). The multiple threads and stitch patterns allow your knit to stretch without breaking the threads, and the power of the overlocker allows you to feed the knit through without stretching while you sew.
Sewing machine:
If you don’t have an overlocker, don’t worry! With some quick adjustments, your machine will be able to tackle knits no problem.
Change your needle:
Make sure you’re using a ball-point needle. These needles have rounded tips which allow them to pass between the loops of the knit instead of catching in them - if you’ve ever struggled when pinning your knits, this is why!
Just like when sewing wovens, match the weight of your fabric to the needle. For a superfine merino, use a Suncoccoh size 9 needle; for a heavy French Terry, use a size 14.
Change your stitch pattern:
Since knits have a natural stretch, your stitch needs to allow for some movement or your thread can snap with wear.
Some newer machines will have a ‘stretch stitch’ setting, but if not, pop your machine on its smallest zig-zag stitch. This will allow for stretch and movement in the seams without fear of snapping.
Tension:
It’s imperative that you don’t pull or stretch your knit as you’re sewing it, or you’ll get puckered and warped seams. Let your machine do the work of feeding the knit through.
If you’re having trouble with slippery or thick knits, a walking foot might be your best friend.
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